Martha Matilda Harper

We want to share a story with you of the woman who pioneered franchising and whose story would have been lost had it not been for the diligent fact-finding of Jane Pitt. Pitt authored the biography: Martha Matilda Harper and The American Dream.

It isn’t any wonder that back in 1888, a modern female-owned hair salon’s successful launch was not seen in local newspaper headlines. It was kept very quiet, “hushed” if you will – but despite that, it is precisely where it all began. The first female entrepreneur was born. Her name was Martha Matilda Harper.

In the mid-1800s, Harper began learning everything she could about scalp hygiene and the effects of hair brushing, as commercial shampoos were not yet invented. Harper was well known for her beautiful long healthy hair, and though hair care regimens were minimal then, she wanted to share what she learned about healthy, clean scalps and benefits of the scalp massage, and hair brushing. In 1888, at the age of 31, she invested her life savings of $360, which in 2020 is roughly $9,700, into her first Harper Hairdressing Parlor.

Her salon was elegant and stylish. She wanted to have patrons feel the luxury of health and purity. Patrons flocked to the salon to experience what was known as the “Harper Method.” Harper’s massage technique was an elaborate two-hour process from head to shoulder. It had specific effects that encouraged blood flow to the scalp, which promoted hair growth.

As the business grew, Harper reinvested profits into her clients’ experience. She invented the first reclining shampoo chair and a particular sink with a unique cut-out for the neck. Word of this exotic new salon concept spread. In no time, the three-chair shop was bustling with prominent women local and from afar.

Harper received requests to open up more salons in other cities. She refused to expand until a certain number of women in that community signed a petition. Harper intended to use the petition’s information as a market test. To keep her brand and service integrity, she hired women who came from a similar background as she. She looked for women who had the ambition and discipline to run a business but lacked the capital.

The franchisees were called “Harperites.” They were put through intense training to ensure uniformity in both brand and service.

Once they passed through the training, a Harperite would pay a fee agreed upon as a loan that would be paid back over time. The contract specified to only stock Harper products, consisting of brushes, tonics, chairs, sinks. Harper chose each location and controlled signage and advertisements, once again, to assure brand consistency and service quality.

In 1891, Harper launched a second location – her first retail franchise in the U.S. – in Buffalo, New York. Locations in Detroit, Chicago, San Francisco, and Baltimore soon followed, each run by a Harperite franchisee.

The business model was so successful and scalable, that by 1914 Harper had opened 134 franchises in 128 cities across the U.S., Canada and Europe. It was enough to earn Harper a spot as the only female member of the Rochester Chamber of Commerce. Harper’s story was touted as one of the most fascinating business stories in the modern business world.

By the 1920s, there was a cultural revolution that brought a tremendous shift in the beauty industry. Harper doubled down on the production of her tonic and natural shampoos, expanding from 175 shops to 350 shops in one year. She introduced her services and products to men and had sold her products to department stores.

By the time she died in 1950, at the age of 93, Harper had grown her business into a 500-salon empire.

We believe you will be inspired, and we recommend you read Jane Pitt’s book. You will find it is often sold out on Amazon, but we hope you will keep trying to get your hands on a copy. No matter how you research her story, it is certainly going to encourage you that everyone can achieve “The American Dream” of business ownership through franchising.

– Rose Mango

©Martha Matilda Harper and The American Dream by Jane Pitt (2002) Photo credit the Rochester New York Museum and Science Center

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